Getting Around

The number of flights and ferry services between major destinations makes it easy to cover the archipelago, even when you're on a tight budget. Local road transport is mostly limited to buses and jeepneys, although in cities such as Manila, Cebu and Davao it's still relatively cheap to get around by taxi.

Planes
Air travel is a godsend for island-hoppers in the Philippines, with a number of airlines both large and small linking Manila to most of the country's major destinations. Philippines Airlines has a comprehensive domestic schedule, while two newer airlines, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific, are catching up fast and offering competitive rates, particularly if you book in advance. Asian Spirit, Air Ads and Pacific Airways are among some of the smaller airlines. Pacific Airways has a bad reputation regarding delays, but Asian Spirit and Air Ads are generally both reliable.

To give you some idea of prices , Philippine Airlines charges P2098 from Manila to Kalibo (for Boracay) if you purchase your ticket in the Philippines. A return ticket is P4196. From Manila to Puerto Princesa in Palawan is P2368 (P4736 return). Manila to Kalibo with Cebu Pacific is P1899 and Manila to Cebu is the same.

Buses
Travelling around the Philippines is part of the experience and nowhere is this truer than on the buses . Dilapidated contraptions with no air-conditioning compete with bigger bus lines with all mod cons on hundreds of routes that span out from Manila. Fares are cheap, but journeys can be long. Manila to Baguio, for instance, costs P120 on an air-conditioned bus, but takes anything up to nine hours. Many hardened travellers prefer to make these epic journeys at night when traffic is light.

Ferries
Boats are the bread and butter of Philippine travel, with wooden outrigger boats, known as bancas, and luxury ferries ready to take you from one destination to the next in varying degrees of comfort and safety. Remember that even in the dry season the open ocean can get rough, so think carefully about using small boats that look ill-equipped or overcrowded. Ferry disasters are not unknown in the Philippines. Regulations are gradually improving, but you can make extra sure by sticking to the major lines such as WG&A , which has daily sailings throughout the country from Manila Port. On less popular routes you might have to take your chances with smaller lines. Ferries are cheap but often crowded. On overnight journeys you can always keep away from the mass of humanity in the downstairs dormitories by sleeping on the deck. WG&A has cabins for those who want privacy and comfort. Fares from Manila to Cebu in economy class cost P890, P1230 with a cabin. Manila to Davao is P1200 economy, P1750 cabin class. Boats are the bread and butter of Philippine travel, with wooden outrigger boats, known as bancas, and luxury ferries ready to take you from one destination to the next in varying degrees of comfort and safety. Remember that even in the dry season the open ocean can get rough, so think carefully about using small boats that look ill-equipped or overcrowded. Ferry disasters are not unknown in the Philippines. Regulations are gradually improving, but you can make extra sure by sticking to the major lines such as WG&A , which has daily sailings throughout the country from Manila Port. On less popular routes you might have to take your chances with smaller lines. Ferries are cheap but often crowded. On overnight journeys you can always keep away from the mass of humanity in the downstairs dormitories by sleeping on the deck. WG&A has cabins for those who want privacy and comfort. Fares from Manila to Cebu in economy class cost P890, P1230 with a cabin. Manila to Davao is P1200 economy, P1750 cabin class.

Taxis
Before you get in a taxi make sure the driver will use his meter or that you have negotiated a reasonable fare. From the Manila Bay area to the business district of Makati the metered fare will be about P100. Never use a taxi if the driver has companions. You stand more chance of getting a taxi if you use them at off-peak times. Few taxi drivers will leap at the chance to take you to the airport at five o'clock on a Friday afternoon in a monsoon downpour, so you'll need to be flexible and allow yourself time.

Local transport
The workhorse of the transport system is the fabled jeepney , a legacy of World War II when American soldiers left behind army jeeps; these were converted by ingenious locals into vehicles, carrying everything from produce to people. Over the years they evolved into today's colourful workhorses of the road, with their fairy lights and cheesy decor. They ply particular routes, indicated on the side of the vehicle. Provincial jeepneys charge as little as P2.50 a ride, while in Manila, prices range up to P20 for longer distances. Jeepneys stop anywhere, so simply flag one down and hop on. When you want to get off bang on the roof or shout "para!"

In Manila and other cities, Toyota FX Tamaraws are a popular way to get around. Owners of these functional air-conditioned vehicles, which can seat up to ten passengers at a squeeze, hang signs in their windows with the name of the destination. FX's, as they are affectionately known, have become a common sight, with many office workers using them because they are cheaper than taxis and more comfortable than jeepneys or buses. The minimum fare is P10.

Tricycles are the Filipino equivalent of the Thai tuk-tuk, and while they are not allowed on major roads they can be useful for getting from a bus station to a beach and back again. Fares tend to increase dramatically when a tourist approaches, so always reach agreement beforehand. P30-40 is a reasonable fare for a five-minute journey.

Vehicle rental
It's easy and relatively cheap to rent a self-drive car in the Philippines. The question is whether or not you would want to. Most Filipino drivers seem to have a very relaxed attitude towards the rules of the road. Swerving is common, as is changing lanes suddenly and driving with one hand permanently on the horn, particularly for bus and jeepney drivers. If you do rent a car you'll require nerve and patience. If you need to get somewhere quickly and have money to spare you can always hire a car with a driver for about P2000 a day, depending on distance (plus a tip for the driver if he gets you there in one piece). Major car rental firms are listed in the Yellow Pages under Automobile Renting and Leasing. They include Avis (tel 02/525 2206), Budget (tel 02/831 8256) and Filcar (tel 02/843 3530).